Museo Cerralbo
The Marquis of Cerralbo left his palatial home to the state on the condition that nothing be rearranged, so you wander through rooms exactly as a wealthy 19th-century collector kept them. Crystal chandeliers, suits of armour, Old Master paintings and a mirrored ballroom sit cheek by jowl in glorious excess. It feels less like a museum than a house where the owner has just stepped out.
Why go: A perfectly preserved aristocratic mansion that most Prado-bound visitors never notice, minutes from Plaza de España.









